English
Noun
sloper- A climbing hold that has a smooth surface and sloping shape, making it difficult to hold.
User Contributed Dictionary
Extensive Definition
In sewing and fashion
design, a pattern is an original garment from which other
garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard
templates from which the
parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and
assembling (sometimes called paper patterns).
Patternmaking , pattern making or pattern cutting
is the art of designing patterns.
A custom-fitted basic pattern from which patterns
for many different styles can be created is called a sloper or
block.
Patterns for custom dressmaking
Custom dressmaking frequently employs one of
three pattern creation methods. The flat-pattern method begins with
the creation of a sloper or block, a basic pattern for a fitted,
jewel-neck
bodice and narrow
skirt, made
to the wearer's measurements. The sloper is usually made of
lightweight cardboard
or tagboard, without
seam
allowances or style details. Once the shape of the sloper has
been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles
(UK) or muslins (US), the final sloper can be used in turn to
create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines,
sleeves, dart placements, and so on.
The drafting method is more commonly employed in
men's garments and involves drafting a pattern directly onto
pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves.
The pattern draping method is used for more
elaborate and unique designs that are hard to obtain through the
flat pattern method. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern
by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the
muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the
muslin as the pattern itself.
Patterns for home sewing
Home sewing patterns are generally printed on tissue paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and trim. Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles, and sewing skill levels, to meet the needs of consumers.Home sewing patterns are graded, that is, redrawn
to fit larger and smaller sizes than the original design. Ebenezer
Butterick invented the commercially produced graded home sewing
pattern in 1863 (based on grading systems used by Victorian
tailors), originally selling hand-drawn patterns for men's and
boys' clothing. In 1866, Butterick added patterns for women's
clothing, which remains the heart of the home sewing pattern market
today.
There are some applications today that enable a
home sewer to customize a computerized pattern to fit her body
measurements and or body shape. The 3D technology enables the home
sewer to see a virtual simulation of the final garment as it will
appear on her. This reduces the Time-to-Market as well as the
number of muslims/test garments that are needed.
Patternmaking Books
Patternmaking books are instructional manuals that provide instructions and diagrams on the constructions of various garments. They are primarily for personal and educational purposes.Patterns for commercial clothing manufacture
The making of industrial patterns begins with an
existing block pattern that most closely resembles the designer's
vision. Patterns are cut of oak-tag (manila folder) paper, punched with a hole and
stored by hanging with a special hook. The pattern is first checked
for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics and the
resulting garment is fit tested. Once the pattern meets the
designer's approval, a small production run of selling samples are
made and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets.
Once the style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is
graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry
specific CAD
program. Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the
accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done. Once these
steps have been followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is
approved for production. When the manufacturing company is ready to
manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given pattern piece
are arranged into a marker, usually by computer. The marker is then
laid on top of the layers of fabric and cut. Once the style has
been sold and delivered to stores – and if it proves to
be quite popular – the pattern of this style will itself
become a block, with subsequent generations of patterns developed
from it.
See also
References
- Brockman, Helen L. (1965), The Theory of Fashion Design, Wiley
- Aldrich, Winifred (1985), Metric pattern cutting, 4th ed, London: Bell and Hyman, ISBN 1-4051-0278-0
External links
sloper in German:
Schnittmuster